Category: Uncategorised

During this ARP it was very easy to get caught up in my research question and the possible interventions it could lead to. However, as my research ended; lectures and interviews completed, activity sheets and feedback transcribed. I remembered that I needed to step back and review the whole process and reflect on my learning from the experience.

Our tutors keep telling us that in assessing our ARP it was not necessarily the research that was being assessed, rather the process of learning and reflection.  I must admit, this felt a little counterintuitive….Surely the whole part of research is the research itself!!

However, I did some more reading in reparation to write my project findings and found some literature that really help put the purpose of action research in perspective for me.

The idea of self-reflection is central to action research. It’s important for my work to reflect the process I have gone through in order to achieve a better understanding of my practice. The PgCert is all about professional development after all.

“Action research is open ended. It does not begin with a fixed hypothesis. It begins with an idea that you develop. The research process is the developmental process of following through the idea, seeing how it goes, and continually checking whether it is in line with what you wish to happen. Seen in this way, action research is a form of self-evaluation”.

(Mcniff, 2002, p6)

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Key learning and observations:

1. Making better use of UAL initiatives in my practice.
2. Disconnect with own knowledge of initiatives such as creative shift, what it was about and what it offers students. After doing research on creative shift, I was able to recommend one of the featured artists to a 2^nd year DPS student who had an interest in working in Ghana.
3. Lack of new and current literature by researchers and practitioners in the field of emergent global fashion markets. Subject not widely written about. Some of the “emergent markets” have been in a state of emergence for decades! Reviews of emergent markets focused on luxury brands branching into emergent markets but not based on talent coming out of these markets.

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Research method findings:

1. Quantitative data collection proved to be a reliable and factual source of information.

Key learning and observations:

1. Quantitative data collected supported my initial hypothesis in regard to placement locations.
2. Benefits of using a variation of research methods to broaden scope and provide relevance and context to initial research question.

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Research method findings:

1. OVERALL EXPERIENCE: DPS year is a transformational experience both professionally and personally. Future proofing:  Building confidence, making connections are key motivations for doing DPS.
2. SKILLS & KNOWLEDGE: Students articulated a greater awareness and relevance of skills gained in the workplace and an appreciation of existing skills.
3. AFFORDABILITY:  Feasibility of doing DPS, challenges of unpaid work, how to survive, how to negotiate pay, working PT along placement,
4. CHALLENGES: Rejections, Living away from home, Money, applying for work- how and when. Placements out of Europe and America. Lack of know how.
5. PRO’S OF RESEARCH METHOD: High level of participation. Sense of community- Greater impact made when peers share their experiences of placement.
6. Students happy to share experiences with others and 2^nd years keen to ask questions.

Key learning and observations:

1. Consent: Protection of students right to refusal when participating in audio recorded session without prior warning. Notify students beforehand that session would be recorded.
2. Thinking creatively of ways to gain consent from large group whilst promoting whole group participation and avoiding exclusion on non-consenting participants.
3. Technical issues with quality of audio recording which lead to almost un- transcribable audio, use of laptop to record audio was not suffice. Record on more suitable device.
4. Better time management and preparation in advance of lecture to ensure sufficient technical support from AV team. Sound check & test beforehand.
5. Challenge assumptions I made that most students would be comfortable talking through a microphone. This could have led to some students feeling uncomfortable speaking during Q&A.

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Research method findings:

Quantitative analyses:

Sample: 13 students submitted placement location map. 16 students submitted ideal placement map

1. 100% of students identified brands within Europe & America as their ideal placement and placement location.
2. 37% of students identified countries outside of Europe & America as their ideal placement location. Namely: Japan/ Australia/ Canada
3. 92% of students identified between 1-5 brands outside of Europe & America. 1 student was able to identify more than 5 brands.
4. 100% of students identified high profile, luxury brands as their ideal placement.

Qualitative & Thematic analyses:

• Students have limited knowledge of brands & businesses that exist outside of Europe & America.
• Student desire to work in, or knowledge of small niche & independent brands is limited.
• High profile, luxury brands identified as ideal placement brand.

Key learning and observations:

1. Thinking creatively of ways to gain consent from large group whilst promoting whole group participation and avoiding exclusion on non-consenting participants.
2. Benefit of using both qualitive and quantitative research methods which offered a clear indication of student knowledge and preferences.
3. Student enjoyed the activity as it offered an opportunity for them to think about their aspirations and goals for placement.
4. Students were stretched and challenged regarding their knowledge of Non-European and American brands. Students saw this as an exercise in highlighting a potential need to broaden their existing knowledge of global brands and businesses.

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Research method findings:

Student interviews

Key learning and observations:

1. For research purposes interviews were very useful and productive source of information.
2. Students keen and willing to participate in conversation around careers.
3. Two students consented to be video recorded as I originally wanted to create a video clip of students interviews, however, I later decided to only use the audio recording and create a transcript for all interviews for consistency as not everyone agreed to be filmed.
4. Challenges on how to compose the right interview question that were not leading and would not prejudice responses. However I think I succeed in asking open questions that allowed the conversation to flow.

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Proposed interventions

At the beginning of my research journey, I must admit to making subjective assumptions as to why so many of our placements take place in Europe. This was in part because of teaching at CSM which has in my view an elitist reputation.

However, I think the success of this journey is the realisation that in academia, and specifically  in delivery of my programme, making these assumptions creates a barrier to my own professional development.

We have influence as tutors to also challenge our biases and perceptions and change our own ideals of what success looks like as a programme.

I gained so much useful information from my research. It has provided me with clear path for developing a way to support and open students up to a more global approach to placements.

I plan to trial and action these interventions within my current DPS course for 2024/25 academic year where I hope to gain feedback from students which should enable me develop and review the interventions further.

Issue	Intervention	Action
Student lack of knowledge in regards to brands and businesses that exist outside of Europe and America.	Preparation for DPS workshop. Profile and introduce students to more  global and culturally diverse brands and businesses. Group discussions and research activities.	2024/2025 DPS academic year as part of DPS preparation lectures. Spring term.
Student uncertainty, psychological and practical barriers in regard to feasibility of placements outside of Europe.	Student final year feedback sessions to include students who have done placements outside of Europe to share their experiences and give advice and suggestions	2024/2025 DPS academic year as part of DPS preparation lectures. Autumn term
DPS Tutor Availability of placements outside of Europe. Costs of visa’s and travel/Security and safety/ language/secure accommodation /Cost of living and pay	Research and connect with brands and businesses outside of Europe for possible DPS placements. Address issues and concerns with businesses. Draft a broader aspirational list of global brands and business. Share with fashion programme tutors. Research and connect with college teams to review funding/ grants/ visas/accommodation	2024/2025 DPS academic year preparation. Autumn term
Student uncertainty, psychological and practical barriers in regard to feasibility of placements outside of Europe.	DPS guest speaker session with new and existing placements providers outside of Europe to share experiences and realities of living and working outside of Europe.	2024/2025 DPS academic year as part of DPS preparation lectures. Autumn term

References

Mcniff, J. (2002) Action research for professional development : concise advice for new action researchers. Poole: September Books.

• Initial literature review
• Ethics form submission
• Rationale/research question
• Initial talk with fashion programme colleagues
• Review research methods
• Draft activities and interview structure
• Enlist students and colleagues
• Collect SITS data collection
• Prepare for in lecture activities
• Prepare for interviews
• Conduct in lecture activities
• Conduct interviews
• Capture outputs
• Collate feedback
• Secondary Lit review
• Draft blogs content
• Draft presentation initial considerations
• Final blogs write up
• Final presentation
• Upload all content

Alvesson, M., 2011. Interpreting Interviews. London: SAGE Publications Ltd. Available at: <https://doi.org/10.4135/9781446268353> [Accessed 12 May 2024].

‌(Baizerman, S., Cerny, C. and Eicher, J. (2008) Eurocentrism in the study of ethnic dress. Fairchild Publications)

Brooksworth, F., Mogaji, E. and Bosah, G. (2023) Fashion Marketing in Emerging Economies Volume II. Springer Nature.

Caulfield, J. (2022, May 12). How to do thematic analysis | Guide & examples. Scribbr. https://www.scribbr.co.uk/research-methods/thematic-analysis-explained/

‌Cousin, G. (2008) Researching Learning in Higher Education: An Introduction to Contemporary Methods and Approaches. London: Routledge.

Kara, H. (2017) Creative Research Methods in the Social Sciences A Practical Guide. Chicago: Policy Press.

Tracy, S. (2010) Qualitative Quality: Eight “Big-Tent”. Criteria for Excellent Qualitative Research, vol. 16(10), pp.837-851

Vaughn, S., Sinagub, J. and Jeanne Shay Schumm (1996) Focus group interviews in education and psychology. Thousand Oaks, Calif.: Sage.

 You won’t believe where luxury fashion is heading in 2024! (2024) NewsBytes. Available at: https://www.newsbytesapp.com/news/lifestyle/luxury-fashion-

market-growth-in-2024/stor (Accessed: 10 May 2024).

Amed, I. and Berg, A. (2023) The State of Fashion 2024: Riding Out the Storm, The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/reports/news-analysis/the-state-of-fashion-2024-report-bof-mckinsey/.

Is the fashion industry too Eurocentric? | Attire Media (no date) Attire | Conscious Fashion, Events & Resources. Available at: https://www.attiremedia.com/popular-brands/diversity-and-inclusion-in-fashion-is-the-fashion-industry-too-eurocentric.

Employability: breaking the mould | Advance HE (no date) www.advance-he.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.advance-he.ac.uk/knowledge-hub/employability-breaking-mould   (Accessed: 27 May 2023).

‌https://www.arts.ac.uk/about-ual/teaching-and-learning-exchange/academic-enhancement/creative-shift

https://www.arts.ac.uk/about-ual/teaching-and-learning-exchange/careers-and-employability/creative-attributes-framework

https://www.arts.ac.uk/students/student-careers

Guidance for Course Teams (no date). Available at: https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0025/37852/Creative_Attribute_Framework_Guidance_for_Course_Teams_PDF_2683KB.pdf.

Important Documents – the BERA Handbook (no date) www.bera.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.bera.ac.uk/about/bera-handbook.

‌ BERA (2024) Ethical Guidelines for Educational Research, Fifth Edition (2024), www.bera.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.bera.ac.uk/publication/ethical-guidelines-for-educational-research-fifth-edition-2024.

‌ UAL (no date) University of the Arts London Code of Practice on Research Ethics, arts.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/43328/UAL-Code-of-Practice-on-Research-Ethics-October-2020.pdf.

To aid my approach to ethical research, the form we had to complete and submit helped me ask important questions as to why I was conducting this research and how to ensure my participants were at the centre are of what I do.

To start with, I reviewed the British Educational Research Associations guidelines for educational research and UAL’s Code of practice on research ethics.

The principles that underline the guidelines, outline that research should be conducted with integrity so that researchers’ actions and activities can be seen to be ethical, justifiable and sound. (Important Documents – the BERA Handbook, no date)

Some of the guiding principles require researchers to employ the most appropriate method of research that embeds and maintains integrity. To consider and respect the privacy, autonomy, diversity, values and dignity of individuals groups and communities. (BERA, 2024)

The guiding principles within UAL’s Code of Practice on Research Ethics, are respect for persons, justice and beneficence. The ethics form we completed helped me to consider and aim to deliver on these principles.

Through my research I am hoping to extend my knowledge and understanding of student placement activities from the perspective of my student group (learners) and academic colleagues (educators) through my research activities.

Key amendments to ethics approach and responses to 1^st draft of submitted ethics form:

Q1.1 How will you ensure your sample is representative of the cohort as a whole? Representativeness is important in your case as you are getting information from a small group and hoping to extrapolate from it.

I amended this approach and decided to use current student timetabled and pre-designed/arranged DPS lectures as a means for conducting group observations and data gathering. This was because existing lectures were already designed around the themes of placements and placement experiences and delivered to the whole cohort.

Q,2.1 Check… do you already know the answers to some of these questions? (if so, why are you asking them, etc).

I reduced the scope of my research and decided not to include interviews of external placement providers. This was in order to simplify the research process, to focus on the student experience and tutor feedback, for feasibility of time management and availability of participants.

To account for my decision to use current lectures as part of my research, I had to review the method of gaining verbal consent from the large number of participants that would attend two separate DPS lectures.

After consulting with my tutors and after much deliberation on the most ethical way to proceed, I decided on the following approach based on these considerations:

1. To protect students right to refuse participation.
2. Ensure students do not feel put on the spot or pressured into giving consent by devising a way for refusal of consent to be given discreetly.
3. For lecture 1. Devise a feasible way of pausing the recording if students did not wish to be recorded during their participation in Q&A.
4. For lecture 2. Devise a method for all students to participate in mind mapping activity which allowed for only consenting participants to submit their maps for research.
5. Ensure All students were able to fully participate in the lecture, regardless of if they had given consent or not.

At the start of the lecture I shared a presentation slide with information about the research I was conducting and outlining the basic scope of the research. The slide asked for their consent and advised of their right to refuse to participate and withdrawal of participation after the event..

1. Lecture 1 (140 attendees). Gaining verbal consent to use activity sheets that were part of the lecture for research.

Students were given details on activities to be conducted in lecture. Students were advised to not write their names on sheets, and only hand in their completed activity sheets if they gave consent for it to be used as part of the research. This allowed for discrete non-participation from students who did not give consent.

• Lecture 2 (121 attendees) . Gaining verbal consent for the final years feedback Q&A session to be recorded as part of research.

Students were advised at the start of the lecture that it would be recorded. All final year students participating on the panel agreed to be recorded. Student audience members who wish to ask a question during the Q&A section of lecture were advised to raise their hands if they wished to ask a question and either give a thumbs up to agree for their question to be recorded or a thumbs down to indicate they did not wish to be recorded. This allowed for discrete non-participation from students who did not give consent.

Thankfully all Q&A participants agreed to have their questions recorded.

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References

Important Documents – the BERA Handbook (no date) www.bera.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.bera.ac.uk/about/bera-handbook.

‌ BERA (2024) Ethical Guidelines for Educational Research, Fifth Edition (2024), www.bera.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.bera.ac.uk/publication/ethical-guidelines-for-educational-research-fifth-edition-2024.

‌ UAL (no date) University of the Arts London Code of Practice on Research Ethics, arts.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/43328/UAL-Code-of-Practice-on-Research-Ethics-October-2020.pdf.

CSM FASHION PLACEMENTS
Breaking the mould of the elite Euro-centric fashion industry.

The rationale for this research question stems from my observations and experiences of working as a course leader and senior lecturer on the Diploma In Professional Studies (DPS) programme over the last 3 years at CSM and previously LCF.

 DPS is an optional pathway for student across 8 fashion BA (Hons) courses at CSM.

The course takes place in the 3^rd year of student studies, after which students return to their studies for their 4^th and final year.

Although it is optional, up to 85% of students elect to complete a DPS year. It is designed to be an integrated and assessed part of our students’ journey through their BA courses and results in a standalone qualification.

The purpose of the Diploma is to equip students with the practical knowledge and experience which will allow them to become informed practitioners in their chosen fields. It is an important first step into the industry and provides an opportunity to align personal career aspirations with the realities of working in industry.

On returning to complete their final year, students have a greater understanding of not only the industry, but themselves, their strengths, values, motivations and ambitions and armed with valuable life experiences and a renewed focus.

There are 2 DPS co-course leaders on the fashion programme at CSM (of which I am one).  Together with my colleague we run the course.

We currently have 197 2^nd year students who have “Opted-in” to do DPS for 2024-2025 academic year, and 167 enrolled 3^rd year DPS students currently on their placement year.

I chose to research this topic and delve into this question because a large number of our students express a keen interest and complete placements predominately in Europe.

As part of my role as DPS course leader, I manage a 2^nd year “preparation for DPS year” programme. I spend a large portion of my teaching time mentoring and conducting 1-2-1 tutorials with 2^nd year students who’ve opted-in for DPS. During these tutorials we discuss things such as students career aspirations: Who they want to work for and where they want to work during the placement year.  As part of our students 2^nd year studies, I hold lectures and workshops on preparing students to work in industry and apply for jobs. I connect with external businesses regarding placements and share job opportunities with students. I also approve student placements requests and have clear visibility as to where and with whom our students secure placements with.

It is whilst getting to know our DPS students, their desires and motivations and reviewing their placement requests, I see a clear preference for placements in Europe and placements within world renowned luxury brands. If I held tutorials with 100 students, I could estimate that at least 80% would mention the same 5-10 brands as an aspirational goal.

The term Eurocentric is a worldwide view that focuses overwhelmingly on the vantage point of Western and European culture. It gives little attention or consideration to the values, experiences or contributions from Asia, Africa, and Latin America for example.

The origins of Eurocentrism in fashion dates back to colonialism, to the birth of the “West and the rest”, when clothing-based distinctions and hierarchisation were established (Baizerman, S., Cerny, C. and Eicher, J. 2008). 

There is fierce competition amongst our students to land what are considered “prestigious” placements within high-profile brands, commonly based in London, NYC, Paris, and Milan.

 Long considered the epi centre and leaders of global fashion. This in turn leads to a very Eurocentric ideal of what it means to have a successful placement and be a successful designer or brand in the fashion industry.

 As a result, I’m sometimes faced with students who feel a deep sense of failure, underachievement and rejection if they do not secure a job within these brands or do not go to Paris, Mian or NYC. Sometimes, students feel like the options they were left with, are of lesser value in terms of prestige recognition and experience.

If securing a placement within a European brand is the benchmark of success, then we are validating them as the dominate culture.

As a result, I work hard to counteract these feelings and mentor students to be more positive and see the value in different experiences. And of course, manage their expectations!

Within the context of my role, and as a fashion department my question is…  As fashion is a global industry, should we be more active academically, in preparing our students to work within a more global landscape outside of the realm of Europe? There is elitism within fashion, and this perhaps transcends into our student body, as it happens, some students at CSM find the institution itself elitist!

However, as indicated in the Business of Fashion report “The state of fashion 2024” (Amed and Berg 2023)  In 2023 growth in the industry faced challenges, particularly in Europe and the US and the luxury sector has begun to feel the pinch.

Fashions emergent global markets include countries and continents such as Africa, India, The Middle East, South America and South East Asia.

Despite regional instability, the Middle East and Africa have markets that are set to reach $57.7 billion by 2024 in part due to the rising number of millionaires.

Africa has a fashion scene that is gaining more global prominence, with government institutions recognising the potential and committing to developing a more sustainable fashion system.

Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia are among countries in SE Asia emerging as luxury havens and fast becoming a focal point for fashion and luxury in Aisa.  (You won’t believe where luxury fashion is heading in 2024!, 2024)

So, there are many aspects to consider when developing or encouraging even a slight shift in focus away from Europe.

In relations to the support of student careers within UAL, I work closely with our designated careers and employability practitioner who supports us with delivering career sessions. However, what is provided by UAL careers and employability team is very general and not specific to the field of fashion.

We have creative shift and deliver our DPS unit in alignment with UAL’s creative attributes framework. However, there is a need for more focused research in the specific area of fashion related placement attainment.

Within the creative attributes framework are very important aspects for student development, one of which is Life-wide learning.

Life-wide learning:

1. Curiosity – the enthusiasm to seek out new perspectives, to create and build on existing knowledge.
2. Resilience – the willingness to adapt and remain motivated, overcome obstacles, and deal with ambiguity, uncertainty, and rejection.
3. Self-efficacy – confidence in their abilities, and the ability to respond positively in various situations.

The question for the above attributes is: In what ways does your course develop these attributes to help students resolve complexity and uncertainty as part of the creative process? (Guidance for Course Teams, no date)

Due to my experiences with students, I am keen for my research questions to take an objective rather than subjective approach, I plan to do this by limiting my references of luxury fashion and placements in Europe.

I would also like to develop an insight into the perceived barriers students face in developing a more global approach to their job searches and working with less renowned brands.

My research question/ questions are a result of wishing to better understand our student motivations and aspirations for placements in general, only then can I begin to extract some possible interventions from my findings.

References

Amed, I. and Berg, A. (2023) The State of Fashion 2024: Riding Out the Storm, The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/reports/news-analysis/the-state-of-fashion-2024-report-bof-mckinsey/.

‌ You won’t believe where luxury fashion is heading in 2024! (2024) NewsBytes. Available at: https://www.newsbytesapp.com/news/lifestyle/luxury-fashion-

market-growth-in-2024/stor (Accessed: 10 May 2024).

(Baizerman, S., Cerny, C. and Eicher, J. (2008) Eurocentrism in the study of ethnic dress. Fairchild Publications)

Brooksworth, F., Mogaji, E. and Bosah, G. (2023) Fashion Marketing in Emerging Economies Volume II. Springer Nature.

Is the fashion industry too Eurocentric? | Attire Media (no date) Attire | Conscious Fashion, Events & Resources. Available at: https://www.attiremedia.com/popular-brands/diversity-and-inclusion-in-fashion-is-the-fashion-industry-too-eurocentric.

‌https://www.arts.ac.uk/about-ual/teaching-and-learning-exchange/academic-enhancement/creative-shift

https://www.arts.ac.uk/about-ual/teaching-and-learning-exchange/careers-and-employability/creative-attributes-framework

https://www.arts.ac.uk/students/student-careers

Guidance for Course Teams (no date). Available at: https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0025/37852/Creative_Attribute_Framework_Guidance_for_Course_Teams_PDF_2683KB.pdf.

Initially my rationale and what I wanted to research was very clear in my mind. However, I struggled to come up with a singular research question. As my ideas progressed, I landed on not so much of a question, rather a statement of intent, followed by a series of questions I wanted to address through my research.

It became apparent through my initial readings that I would need to utilise a few different research methods to be able to answer my question/questions.

One method that stood out was ethnography as a qualitative research method which would allow me to use techniques such as observations, interviews and focus group activities.

As my research question has an element of social justice /activism, this method would allow me to observe my participants in their educational environment to understand their experiences, perspectives and everyday practices.

 (Kara, 2017) points out that academics in education are often encouraged to conduct activist research with the aim of reducing inequalities based on prejudice. As part of our ARP’s we were tasked as academics and educators to have an element of social justice within our research so that our research can be used as a force for good.

Multiple types of data, researcher viewpoints, theoretical frames, and methods of analysis allow different facets of problems to be explored, increases scope, deepens understanding, and encourages consistent (re) interpretation.(Tracy, 2010, p.844)

My ARP Research cycle

Question?

To support my ideas of using various research methods, I reviewed literature along the themes of interviews, and focus groups.

(Vaughn, Sinagub and Jeanne Shay Schumm, 1996) Write that focus groups can be used alone or with other methods, both qualitative and quantitative for a wide range of purposes. Focus groups  can present a great deal of specific information on a selected topic in a short space of time.

This was something I wanted to take advantage of, as finding the time along all my other commitments was challenging!

I also planned to conduct semi-structured face to face interviews with students and tutors.

I developed a list of questions I wanted to ask but was happy to deviate from this and wanted the interviews to feel much like a conversation. As a result I planned to be careful at the start of the interview by not giving away too much as to the context and specifics questions within the interview.

 I very much liked the idea of taking an emphatic approach and the sharing of experiences in order to build trust and engage in a give and take, real conversation.

“The interview subject has potentially much value to say, but this calls for the researcher to actively lead or support that subject into intelligent talk. Interviewer and interviewee thus collaborate in the co-construction of knowledge”.(Alvesson, 2011,p7)

After I submitted my 1^st ethics form I had more time to think about the feasibility of delivering on all the different aspects of my research and the best and most time efficient way for me to gather information.

It was at this point, and on the advice of a colleague who recently completed their PGcert, that I had a re-think and decided to utilise two of my current and planned DPS lectures for my ARP.

I decided to use these lectures after I realised that the lecture topics around placements and placement experiences were suitable for my research.

However, after the making the decision to use the lectures for my ARP I came across a dilemma I wasn’t sure how to deal with.

“Be prepared to modify your plans about what and how to collect as you enter the setting and discover both unexpected opportunities and blocks.”(Cousin, 2008, p139)

(Kara, 2017) also discusses how sometimes, all the theories and resources designed to help us research ethically can only go so far and cannot account for every eventuality!

I experienced this with these two lectures, time was against me as I only made the decision to use the lectures for my research a day before the 1^st lecture!

I decided to use a “final years feedback” lecture as an opportunity to conduct a form of peer-to-peer observational focus group. The lecture itself was pretty much set up this way, so I did not need to make any amends to the structure of the planned lecture. However, I would need to record the session and seek consent from a large group of students (121!) and 7 student panellists!

I particularly like the idea of the “snowballing” effect that can occur during focus groups. Being able to observe students responding to panellists during a Q&A, as well as other advantages such as synergism, simulation, security and spontaneity. I already had a series of  questions to ask the panellists but added 3 more questions that related specifically to my research. However, fundamentally, the focus group would allow and encourage natural interactions between the peer groups.

The 2^nd lecture was a “preparation for DPS” session based on placements. For this session I decided to use a mind mapping activity I had used in other lectures and amended it to focus on asking specific questions relating to my research (still relating to placements). This activity-based observation would allow for both qualitive and quantitative thematic analysis. However, again I would have to figure out a way to get consent from a large group of students (140!)

 As a result, there was a need for me to pivot and assess the approach of using existing lectures for my research (as outlined in ethics blog.) I found myself having to ask for advice from my tutors and make further considerations on how to obtain participants consent in a public yet discreet way.

All whilst protecting their right to refuse participation, but still allowing them to fully participate in the session. This was a challenge, but it was interesting to consider the variety of ways and materials by which consent can be obtained. Although a little stressful. I actually enjoyed the problem solving and having to think on my feet!

After consulting with my tutors and after much deliberation on the most ethical way to proceed, I decided on the following approach based on these considerations:

1. To protect students right to refuse participation.
2. Ensure students don’t feel put on the spot or pressured into giving consent by devising a way for refusal of consent to be given discreetly.
3. For lecture 1. Devise a feasible way of pausing the recording if students did not wish to be recorded during their participation in Q&A.
4. For lecture 2. Devise a method for all students to participate in mind mapping activity which allowed for only consenting participants to submit their maps for research.
5. Ensure All students were able to fully participate in the lecture, regardless of if they had given consent or not.

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Research methods:

Method 1

What: Literature review

Why: Understand the current landscape and scope of placements and careers in the fashion industry.

How: Review of current UAL policies and practices in the area of professional development, careers and employability. Current sources of information from specialist industry practitioners and organisations in global fashion, luxury fashion and emergent markets.

Method 2 Secondary data for Quantitative analyses

What: UAL /SITS Portal

Why:  Add factual relevance and context to research topic in support of rationale with quantitative data on current student placement locations.

How: Used my gatekeeper access to collect data on current student placement locations.

Method 3.1 Qualitive data for thematic analyses.

What: DPS 2^nd year, “into to DPS” preparation lecture. Q&A Final years feedback session. Peer to peer observational focus group.

Why: Understand the realities of student experiences on placement from students who have returned from working in industry. What kind of questions and queries do 2^nd year students have in relations to placements and working in industry.

How: Audio record and observe answers to questions asked to final year students by DPS tutors and 2^nd year students. Observe and record peer to peer interactions during Q&A. All students gave consent to be recorded.

Where: CSM LVMH theater-  Attendance- 121 2^nd year students, 7 final year student panelists.

Method 3.2  Qualitive and quantitative data for thematic analyses.

What: DPS 2^nd year, “into to DPS” preparation lecture. In lecture activity.

Why: Review students current placement aspirations and motivations. What are their “dream placements”, with whom do they want to work for and where are they located geographically?

How: Set up and deliver student mind-mapping activity. Students create two mind maps.

1 map completed in pairs to highlight student awareness of global brands or businesses located outside of Europe and the US.

1 mind map completed individually that highlights students ideal placement brand/business and its location geographically. Only students who gave consent handed in their activity sheets after the session.

Where: CSM LVMH theater-  Attendance- 140 2^nd year students.

Method 4  Qualitive data for thematic analyses.

What: Semi-Structured interviews with 2^ND Year DPS students and Fashion programme tutors/ pathway leaders.

Why: Ascertain student and tutors views, opinions, expectations, knowledge, motivations and aspirations in regards to placements.

How: Audio recorded face to face semi structured interviews. 3 fashion programme pathway leaders and 3 2^nd year DPS student.

Tutor selection: 3 tutors from 3 of the 8 fashion courses. Selected to account for representation of course size and specialism, gender, age.

Student selection: 3 students from 3 of the 8 fashion courses. Selected at random to account for representation of ethnicity, gender, age.

Two students consented to be video recorded as I originally wanted to create a video clip of students interviews, however, I later decided to only use the voice recording to create a transcript for all interviews for consistency as not everyone agreed to be filmed.

Where: In-person in CSM and online on MS teams.

Session challenges: Sound quality of recording is poor, so transcription is poor. This is despite the fact that participants used a microphone when speaking. Lessons learnt: Test audio facilities beforehand session with team and ensure you use a suitable device to pick up sound recording as I believe the mic on my laptop was not strong enough

“you begin to make judgments on the basis of the emerging analysis about how many more people you want to interview and what kind of experiences you would like them to reflect. Theoretical sampling means that you talk to more people to go more deeply into the issue”(Cousin, 2008, p.80)

Please see below interview schedule for both tutor and student interviews.

APR-2nd-Year-DPS-student-research-interview-questions-1DOWNLOAD

APR-Fashion-programme-tutor-interview-questions-1DOWNLOAD

Please see below student and tutor interview transcripts.

ARP-Research-interview-transcript-fashion-programme-pathway-leader-1DOWNLOAD

ARP-Research-interview-transcript-fashion-programme-pathway-leader-2DOWNLOAD

ARP-Research-interview-transcript-fashion-programme-pathway-leader-3DOWNLOAD

ARP-Research-interview-transcript-2nd-year-fashion-student-1DOWNLOAD

ARP-Research-interview-transcript-2nd-year-fashion-student-2DOWNLOAD

ARP-Research-interview-transcript-2nd-year-fashion-programme-student-3DOWNLOAD

Please see below lecture 1 DPS final years feedback session presentation with consent slide.

DPS-Final-years-feedback-session-with-ARP-consent-11-23DOWNLOAD

Please see below transcript of final years feedback session.

ARP-Research-transcript-DPS-final-years-feedback-session-with-2nd-years-fashion-studentsDOWNLOAD

Please see below lecture 2 Preparation for DPS session with consent slide.

Preparing-for-your-DPS-journery-part-2-with-ARP-consent-November-2023DOWNLOAD

Please see below examples of completed student activity mind maps.

ARP-Session-activity-ideal-placement-mind-mapsDOWNLOAD

ARP-session-activity-Non-European-brands-mind-mapDOWNLOAD

Research Methods

Initially my rationale and what I wanted to research was very clear in my mind. However, I struggled to come up with a singular research question. As my ideas progressed, I landed on not so much of a question, rather a statement of intent, followed by a series of questions I wanted to address through my research.

It became apparent through my initial readings that I would need to utilise a few different research methods to be able to answer my question/questions.

One method that stood out was ethnography as a qualitative research method which would allow me to use techniques such as observations, interviews and focus group activities.

As my research question has an element of social justice /activism, this method would allow me to observe my participants in their educational environment to understand their experiences, perspectives and everyday practices.

 (Kara, 2017) points out that academics in education are often encouraged to conduct activist research with the aim of reducing inequalities based on prejudice. As part of our ARP’s we were tasked as academics and educators to have an element of social justice within our research so that our research can be used as a force for good.

Multiple types of data, researcher viewpoints, theoretical frames, and methods of analysis allow different facets of problems to be explored, increases scope, deepens understanding, and encourages consistent (re) interpretation.(Tracy, 2010, p.844)

My ARP Research cycle

Question?

To support my ideas of using various research methods, I reviewed literature along the themes of interviews, and focus groups.

(Vaughn, Sinagub and Jeanne Shay Schumm, 1996) Write that focus groups can be used alone or with other methods, both qualitative and quantitative for a wide range of purposes. Focus groups  can present a great deal of specific information on a selected topic in a short space of time.

This was something I wanted to take advantage of, as finding the time along all my other commitments was challenging!

I also planned to conduct semi-structured face to face interviews with students and tutors.

I developed a list of questions I wanted to ask but was happy to deviate from this and wanted the interviews to feel much like a conversation. As a result I planned to be careful at the start of the interview by not giving away too much as to the context and specifics questions within the interview.

 I very much liked the idea of taking an emphatic approach and the sharing of experiences in order to build trust and engage in a give and take, real conversation.

“The interview subject has potentially much value to say, but this calls for the researcher to actively lead or support that subject into intelligent talk. Interviewer and interviewee thus collaborate in the co-construction of knowledge”.(Alvesson, 2011,p7)

After I submitted my 1^st ethics form I had more time to think about the feasibility of delivering on all the different aspects of my research and the best and most time efficient way for me to gather information.

It was at this point, and on the advice of a colleague who recently completed their PGcert, that I had a re-think and decided to utilise two of my current and planned DPS lectures for my ARP.

I decided to use these lectures after I realised that the lecture topics around placements and placement experiences were suitable for my research.

However, after the making the decision to use the lectures for my ARP I came across a dilemma I wasn’t sure how to deal with.

“Be prepared to modify your plans about what and how to collect as you enter the setting and discover both unexpected opportunities and blocks.”(Cousin, 2008, p139)

(Kara, 2017) also discusses how sometimes, all the theories and resources designed to help us research ethically can only go so far and cannot account for every eventuality!

I experienced this with these two lectures, time was against me as I only made the decision to use the lectures for my research a day before the 1^st lecture!

I decided to use a “final years feedback” lecture as an opportunity to conduct a form of peer-to-peer observational focus group. The lecture itself was pretty much set up this way, so I did not need to make any amends to the structure of the planned lecture. However, I would need to record the session and seek consent from a large group of students (121!) and 7 student panellists!

I particularly like the idea of the “snowballing” effect that can occur during focus groups. Being able to observe students responding to panellists during a Q&A, as well as other advantages such as synergism, simulation, security and spontaneity. I already had a series of  questions to ask the panellists but added 3 more questions that related specifically to my research. However, fundamentally, the focus group would allow and encourage natural interactions between the peer groups.

The 2^nd lecture was a “preparation for DPS” session based on placements. For this session I decided to use a mind mapping activity I had used in other lectures and amended it to focus on asking specific questions relating to my research (still relating to placements). This activity-based observation would allow for both qualitive and quantitative thematic analysis. However, again I would have to figure out a way to get consent from a large group of students (140!)

 As a result, there was a need for me to pivot and assess the approach of using existing lectures for my research (as outlined in ethics blog.) I found myself having to ask for advice from my tutors and make further considerations on how to obtain participants consent in a public yet discreet way.

All whilst protecting their right to refuse participation, but still allowing them to fully participate in the session. This was a challenge, but it was interesting to consider the variety of ways and materials by which consent can be obtained. Although a little stressful. I actually enjoyed the problem solving and having to think on my feet!

After consulting with my tutors and after much deliberation on the most ethical way to proceed, I decided on the following approach based on these considerations:

1. To protect students right to refuse participation.
2. Ensure students don’t feel put on the spot or pressured into giving consent by devising a way for refusal of consent to be given discreetly.
3. For lecture 1. Devise a feasible way of pausing the recording if students did not wish to be recorded during their participation in Q&A.
4. For lecture 2. Devise a method for all students to participate in mind mapping activity which allowed for only consenting participants to submit their maps for research.
5. Ensure All students were able to fully participate in the lecture, regardless of if they had given consent or not.

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Research methods:

Session challenges: Sound quality of recording is poor, so transcription is poor. This is despite the fact that participants used a microphone when speaking. Lessons learnt: Test audio facilities beforehand session with team and ensure you use a suitable device to pick up sound recording as I believe the mic on my laptop was not strong enough

“you begin to make judgments on the basis of the emerging analysis about how many more people you want to interview and what kind of experiences you would like them to reflect. Theoretical sampling means that you talk to more people to go more deeply into the issue”(Cousin, 2008, p.80)

Please see below interview schedule for both tutor and student interviews.

Please see below student and tutor interview transcripts.

Please see below lecture 1 DPS final years feedback session presentation with consent slide.

Please see below transcript of final years feedback session.

Please see below lecture 2 Preparation for DPS session with consent slide.

Please see below examples of completed student activity mind maps.

To aid my approach to ethical research, the form we had to complete and submit helped me ask important questions as to why I was conducting this research and how to ensure my participants were at the centre are of what I do.

To start with, I reviewed the British Educational Research Associations guidelines for educational research and UAL’s Code of practice on research ethics.

The principles that underline the guidelines, outline that research should be conducted with integrity so that researchers’ actions and activities can be seen to be ethical, justifiable and sound. (Important Documents – the BERA Handbook, no date)

Some of the guiding principles require researchers to employ the most appropriate method of research that embeds and maintains integrity. To consider and respect the privacy, autonomy, diversity, values and dignity of individuals groups and communities. (BERA, 2024)

The guiding principles within UAL’s Code of Practice on Research Ethics, are respect for persons, justice and beneficence. The ethics form we completed helped me to consider and aim to deliver on these principles.

Through my research I am hoping to extend my knowledge and understanding of student placement activities from the perspective of my student group (learners) and academic colleagues (educators) through my research activities.

Key amendments to ethics approach and responses to 1^st draft of submitted ethics form:

Q1.1 How will you ensure your sample is representative of the cohort as a whole? Representativeness is important in your case as you are getting information from a small group and hoping to extrapolate from it.

I amended this approach and decided to use current student timetabled and pre-designed/arranged DPS lectures as a means for conducting group observations and data gathering. This was because existing lectures were already designed around the themes of placements and placement experiences and delivered to the whole cohort.

Q,2.1 Check… do you already know the answers to some of these questions? (if so, why are you asking them, etc).

I reduced the scope of my research and decided not to include interviews of external placement providers. This was in order to simplify the research process, to focus on the student experience and tutor feedback, for feasibility of time management and availability of participants.

To account for my decision to use current lectures as part of my research, I had to review the method of gaining verbal consent from the large number of participants that would attend two separate DPS lectures.

After consulting with my tutors and after much deliberation on the most ethical way to proceed, I decided on the following approach based on these considerations:

1. To protect students right to refuse participation.
2. Ensure students do not feel put on the spot or pressured into giving consent by devising a way for refusal of consent to be given discreetly.
3. For lecture 1. Devise a feasible way of pausing the recording if students did not wish to be recorded during their participation in Q&A.
4. For lecture 2. Devise a method for all students to participate in mind mapping activity which allowed for only consenting participants to submit their maps for research.
5. Ensure ALL students were able to fully participate in the lecture, regardless of if they had given consent or not.

At the start of the lecture I shared a presentation slide with information about the research I was conducting and outlining the basic scope of the research. The slide asked for their consent and advised of their right to refuse to participate and withdrawal of participation after the event..

Lecture 1 (140 attendees). Gaining verbal consent to use activity sheets that were part of the lecture for research.

Students were given details on activities to be conducted in lecture. Students were advised to not write their names on sheets, and only hand in their completed activity sheets if they gave consent for it to be used as part of the research. This allowed for discrete non-participation from students who did not give consent.

Lecture 2 (121 attendees) . Gaining verbal consent for the final years feedback Q&A session to be audio recorded as part of research.

Students were advised at the start of the lecture that it would be recorded. All final year students participating on the panel agreed to be recorded. Student audience members who wish to ask a question during the Q&A section of lecture were advised to raise their hands if they wished to ask a question and either give a thumbs up to agree for their question to be recorded or a thumbs down to indicate they did not wish to be recorded. This allowed for discrete non-participation from students who did not give consent.

Thankfully all Q&A participants agreed to have their questions recorded.

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References

Important Documents – the BERA Handbook (no date) www.bera.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.bera.ac.uk/about/bera-handbook.

‌ BERA (2024) Ethical Guidelines for Educational Research, Fifth Edition (2024), www.bera.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.bera.ac.uk/publication/ethical-guidelines-for-educational-research-fifth-edition-2024.

‌ UAL (no date) University of the Arts London Code of Practice on Research Ethics, arts.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/43328/UAL-Code-of-Practice-on-Research-Ethics-October-2020.pdf.

CSM FASHION PLACEMENTS
Breaking the mould of the elite Euro-centric fashion industry.

The rationale for this research question stems from my observations and experiences of working as a course leader and senior lecturer on the Diploma In Professional Studies (DPS) programme over the last 3 years at CSM and previously LCF.

 DPS is an optional pathway for student across 8 fashion BA (Hons) courses at CSM.

The course takes place in the 3^rd year of student studies, after which students return to their studies for their 4^th and final year.

Although it is optional, up to 85% of students elect to complete a DPS year. It is designed to be an integrated and assessed part of our students’ journey through their BA courses and results in a standalone qualification.

The purpose of the Diploma is to equip students with the practical knowledge and experience which will allow them to become informed practitioners in their chosen fields. It is an important first step into the industry and provides an opportunity to align personal career aspirations with the realities of working in industry.

On returning to complete their final year, students have a greater understanding of not only the industry, but themselves, their strengths, values, motivations and ambitions and armed with valuable life experiences and a renewed focus.

There are 2 DPS co-course leaders on the fashion programme at CSM (of which I am one).  Together with my colleague we run the course.

We currently have 197 2^nd year students who have “Opted-in” to do DPS for 2024-2025 academic year, and 167 enrolled 3^rd year DPS students currently on their placement year.

I chose to research this topic and delve into this question because a large number of our students express a keen interest and complete placements predominately in Europe.

As part of my role as DPS course leader, I manage a 2^nd year “preparation for DPS year” programme. I spend a large portion of my teaching time mentoring and conducting 1-2-1 tutorials with 2^nd year students who’ve opted-in for DPS. During these tutorials we discuss things such as students career aspirations: Who they want to work for and where they want to work during the placement year.  As part of our students 2^nd year studies, I hold lectures and workshops on preparing students to work in industry and apply for jobs. I connect with external businesses regarding placements and share job opportunities with students. I also approve student placements requests and have clear visibility as to where and with whom our students secure placements with.

It is whilst getting to know our DPS students, their desires and motivations and reviewing their placement requests, I see a clear preference for placements in Europe and placements within world renowned luxury brands. If I held tutorials with 100 students, I could estimate that at least 80% would mention the same 5-10 brands as an aspirational goal.

There is fierce competition amongst our students to land what are considered “prestigious” placements within high-profile brands, commonly based in London, NYC, Paris, and Milan.

 Long considered the epi centre and leaders of global fashion. This in turn leads to a very Eurocentric ideal of what it means to have a successful placement and be a successful designer or brand in the fashion industry.

 As a result, I’m sometimes faced with students who feel a deep sense of failure, underachievement and rejection if they do not secure a job within these brands or do not go to Paris, Mian or NYC. Sometimes, students feel like the options they were left with, are of lesser value in terms of prestige recognition and experience.

As a result, I work hard to counteract these feelings and mentor students to be more positive and see the value in different experiences. And of course, manage their expectations!

Within the context of my role, and as a fashion department my question is…  As fashion is a global industry, should we be more active academically, in preparing our students to work within a more global landscape outside of the realm of Europe? There is elitism within fashion, and this perhaps transcends into our student body, as it happens, some students at CSM find the institution itself elitist!

However, as indicated in the Business of Fashion report “The state of fashion 2024” (Amed and Berg 2023)  In 2023 growth in the industry faced challenges, particularly in Europe and the US and the luxury sector has begun to feel the pinch.

Fashions emergent global markets include countries and continents such as Africa, India, The Middle East, South America and South East Asia.

Despite regional instability, the Middle East and Africa have markets that are set to reach $57.7 billion by 2024 in part due to the rising number of millionaires.

Africa has a fashion scene that is gaining more global prominence, with government institutions recognising the potential and committing to developing a more sustainable fashion system.

Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia are among countries in SE Asia emerging as luxury havens and fast becoming a focal point for fashion and luxury in Aisa.  (You won’t believe where luxury fashion is heading in 2024!, 2024)

In relations to the support of student careers within UAL, I work closely with our designated careers and employability practitioner who supports us with delivering career sessions. However, what is provided by UAL careers and employability team is very general and not specific to the field of fashion.

We have creative shift and deliver our DPS unit in alignment with UAL’s creative attributes framework. However, there is a need for more focused research in the specific area of fashion related placement attainment.

Within the creative attributes framework are very important aspects for student development, one of which is Life-wide learning.

Life-wide learning:

1. Curiosity – the enthusiasm to seek out new perspectives, to create and build on existing knowledge.
2. Resilience – the willingness to adapt and remain motivated, overcome obstacles, and deal with ambiguity, uncertainty, and rejection.
3. Self-efficacy – confidence in their abilities, and the ability to respond positively in various situations.

The question for the above attributes is: In what ways does your course develop these attributes to help students resolve complexity and uncertainty as part of the creative process? (Guidance for Course Teams, no date)

Due to my experiences with students, I am keen for my research questions to take an objective rather than subjective approach, I plan to do this by limiting my references of luxury fashion and placements in Europe.

I would also like to develop an insight into the perceived barriers students face in developing a more global approach to their job searches and working with less renowned brands.

My research question/ questions are a result of wishing to better understand our student motivations and aspirations for placements in general, only then can I begin to extract some possible interventions from my findings.

References

Amed, I. and Berg, A. (2023) The State of Fashion 2024: Riding Out the Storm, The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/reports/news-analysis/the-state-of-fashion-2024-report-bof-mckinsey/.

‌ You won’t believe where luxury fashion is heading in 2024! (2024) NewsBytes. Available at: https://www.newsbytesapp.com/news/lifestyle/luxury-fashion-

market-growth-in-2024/stor (Accessed: 10 May 2024).

‌https://www.arts.ac.uk/about-ual/teaching-and-learning-exchange/academic-enhancement/creative-shift

https://www.arts.ac.uk/about-ual/teaching-and-learning-exchange/careers-and-employability/creative-attributes-framework

https://www.arts.ac.uk/students/student-careers

Guidance for Course Teams (no date). Available at: https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0025/37852/Creative_Attribute_Framework_Guidance_for_Course_Teams_PDF_2683KB.pdf.